Stefan Glowacz

Highest gradeRetired1993 Updated on 1 April 2013

Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965, in Tittmoning) is a German professional rock climber and adventurer.^[1] He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's strongest competition climbers and sport climber a few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges such as expeditions to remote places in Canada,^[2] Patagonia and Antarctica.

Competition climbing

• 1985 Sportroccia
• 1987, 1988, 1992 Rock Master
• Winner of the Olympic Games' demonstration challenge in Albertville
• 1993 Vice World Champion

Notable ascents

• In 1994, Glowacz freed Des Kaisers neue Kleider [it] (translated: The Emperor's new Clothes) in the Kaiser Mountains at (X+/8b+/5.14a), one of the hardest-ever big wall climbing routes in world.
• First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada
• In 2001, Glowacz became the first-ever person to complete the "Alpine Trilogy [it]" of the hardest multi-pitch big wall climbing routes of the Alps (all established in 1994), including Thomas Huber's "End of Silence" (X/8b/5.13d) near Berchtesgaden and Beat Kammerlander's "Silbergeier" ("Silver Vulture") (X/8b/5.13d) in the Rätikon
• In 2006, he was nominated for the Piolet d'Or' for a 27-pitch route (IX+/7c+/5.13a, A2, M4) up the north wall of the Mullarón in Patagonia.

Books, Films

• Jäger des Augenblicks
• Richtig Freiklettern
• Rocks around the World
• Hoch hinaus
• Titlis – Chronik einer Erstbegehung, DVD
• The Race, DVD
• On the Rocks - Leben an den Fingerspitzen (2005, Piper)
• Cerro Torre: Scream of the Stone (1991, directed by Werner Herzog), DVD
• Roraima: Climbers of the Lost World (2013, Red Bull)

See also

• History of rock climbing
• List of first ascents (sport climbing)

References

External links

• Official website
• Biography on climbandmore.com